Qinghai is in central China. I’ve included a map below, because now that we’ve covered Tibet and Xinjiang, things are getting a bit more tricky. My geography class memories are failing on me, if I had ever had to learn Chinese provinces that is.

It is the province where the Yellow River, Yangtze River and Mekong originate. About 5 million people live in Qinghai, with Xining being the biggest city. More importantly though, is the nature of Qinghai: Snow mountains on 5000m above sea level, the enormous salty Qinghai lake and a Sahara-like desert. Qinghai has it all.

However, there is one thing that Qinghai doesn’t have. A very distinctive cuisine. Probably because the region is a melting pot of Tibetans, Han Chinese, Mongols and Turks and only recently (1928) became a province of China. This is reflected in the food. The restaurant claiming to serve to most authentic Qinghai food in Shanghai – which we visited – was not a Qinghai-only restaurant, but a restaurant serving dishes from bordering provinces as well.

So, what did we eat? Mutton! Yes, 3 provinces in a row now (spoiler: this won’t be the last) Besides the usual mutton, we had ox tail. While not particular unique for this province, the view of a tail with a bone in the middle doesn’t whet my appetite. But that’s just personal. Furthermore, we had fried rice porridge soaked in honey, which reminded me of grandma’s rice porridge. But then fried. Some big fat noodles, some yogurt, and – surprisingly delicious – red soup with “fish shaped” noodles.

After 3 provinces we’re still no food experts. But Qinghai will not go in our top list, that’s for sure. Nevertheless, another province covered and experienced.

Rice says:

Raise the Red Lantern!

Noodle says:

Next!

A Xinjiang restaurant isn’t like your average Chinese restaurant. That became clear directly by the golden minaret outside and all Chinese characters accompanied by Arabic equivalents. Add a mix of Chinese and middle eastern culture, people and atmosphere, oh and lots of gold, and you’re in a Xinjiang restaurant.

This real Xinjiang restaurant – with Xinjiang people only – is a fascinating place. A noisy brightly lid basement with people talking loudly, smoking, drinking, dancing, singing and drinking Red Bull. Literally every table was drinking the golden can energy drink. I don’t know about the night life of Xinjiang but it appeared to me that the evening for those people had just begun and they all needed some extra energy.

Comparable to the Tibetan restaurant, dancing and singing is part of the deal. While the performance was not as professional as in the Tibetan restaurant, at least anyone could always jump in and join. Comparing that to the stiffness of most western restaurants, it makes me believe Xinjiang people are having a lot more fun. Check the video below!

The food however, was not a big deal. Mainly halal mutton. Besides the huge tasty shashlik sticks, not something to get very excited about. The big flat noodles where good though, but perhaps they tasted better because we got them for free. One thing that did surprise was the beer. Sinkiang Black Beer. While normally not a fan of dark beer, this was really good.

Rice says:

I am a pacifist. I am Japanese.

Noodle says:

Golden Bull?

Video:

Hidden in Shanghai Stadium left us walking in circles, but after finding the right stadium entrance there is no way to miss it: loud music blasting from speakers outside, add some blinking lights to it and you’ve found what is said to be one of the most traditional Tibetan restaurants in Shanghai. It’s name Zha Xi Da Wa is complemented with the tagline: Tibetan Performance Bar & Grill. Although I didn’t really see a bar, they got the performance part covered. It’s singing, dancing and drinking whole evening. With later in the evening guests freely joining the Tibetan performances. All performing this one Tibetan dance rhythm that clearly not everyone on stage had mastered.

The food mainly consists of lamb and mutton. And yak. And unidentifiable vegetables. This being our first restaurant visit we claimed to be foreign reporters. Putting my black leather notebook on the table helped. In return we received lengthy explanations on every item in the menu and where accompanied with a waitress the rest of the evening, might we have any questions.

The food was good. Really good. While we are no food experts at all we know what tastes good. Except for the unidentifiable chewy green vegetables. And the yak milk isn’t really something to start drinking regularly either. But the meat, which had to be eaten wearing gloves, was great. And hopefully after some more provinces our tastes are more refined and we can comment on food beyond ‘really good’ and ‘nice’.

Rice says:

I’m starved.

Noodle says:

Yak milk doesn’t taste bad if you eat chewy green vegetable first.

Video: (click here if you can’t see it)